The ‘Real’ Kaza

After the bumpy ride from Manali, the wind-stricken stay at Batal and the maddening walk to the breath-taking Chandra taal, my bones were craving comfort, a clean washroom, hot water and some belly filling food. And that’s exactly what I got in Kaza. Here, I’m cooped up at Hotel Spiti Heritage. A relatively new hotel in…

Everything Unwanted The Road Offers

The strangest thing happened today. I had reached Batal by 9 or so in the morning. The wind hadn’t started yet. The bus from Kaza arrived dutifully at 11. I was in the dhaba doing what I don’t quite remember. The crowd started spilling into the shack and soon it was a chaos curry of…

Learning To Be A Freeloader

The breathing problem got worse in the morning. I want to get down to Batal at the earliest. I feel awkward in Chandratal and there is no one to talk to. All the other tourists here are with friends and spent their time either in their tents or preparing for the trek to Chandrataal, stuffing their…

‘Not’ Dealing With Altitude Sickness at Chandratal

I must admit, walking to Chandratal was the loneliest experience of this journey so far. It put me in a shell of some sorts. I wanted to be quiet, shielding myself in the privacy of a small white tent at Tenzin camp, left alone with my thoughts. I felt incredibly shy at Chandratal. On a…

Exploring Madness In The Silence Of Spiti

When I woke up in the morning, I was in two minds. Should I go? Should I wait for a ride? Should I just stay on in Batal instead? Save both money and effort? The choice was simple. All I had to do was say yes or no. So, I stopped thinking. I tuned out…